DINING
Pellegrino’s Ristorante/ Deerfield Beach
Judith Stocks
Fine Dinning
Anyone who’s learned to settle for mediocre
Italian restaurant food gets dibs on the first forkful
at Pellegrino’s.
Then again, visiting is just as special for those
familiar with delicious authentic Italian fare.
Let’s call it an equal opportunity of new
experiences for the uninitiated and assurance for
the nostalgic.
Descending from New York City’s famous Rao’s
in East Harlem, Pellegrino’s is as rich in
its proudly fostered heritage as its food is in
flavor. The food tastes as if someone has been perfecting
it for generations. It’s simple old-fashion
Italian eating, with designated days of the week
offering old time favorites such as tripe, lambs
head, baccala and the marvels of traditional Sunday
dinner.
Forget red-checkered tablecloths, empty chianti
bottles and plastic grapes hanging from arbors.
This sparkling facility is upscale white tablecloth
all the way, highlighted by warm decorator touches
and a service staff keenly aware of how enjoyable
the restaurant is.
In hallowed Rao’s tradition, house specialties
are too good to pass up, making decisions challenging,
especially after hearing off the menu tableside
recitals, such as fried smelts, delicate yet meaty,
perfectly breaded, cleanly fried fish- each as big
as your forearm. Even simple long Italian hot peppers
sautéed in garlic and oil reach new heights,
as does delightful cold seafood salad. It was love
at first bite for the fresh, thinly sliced and sublimely
sweet scungilli, along with a bounty of whole large
shrimp, calamari and plenty of pricey lump crab
meat in a light , clean and delicious lemon garlic
marinade. Can you blame me for waxing lyrical?
Insalata Caprese takes on new meaning. It’s
chunks of cloudlike mozzarella in luxurious fresh
basil marinade along with true beefsteak tomatoes
gorgeously seasoned and adorned with sliced garlic.
Even the basic house salad is a treat. Romaine,
radicchio, carrots, tomatoes and olives are tossed
in a light house dressing, thankfully devoid of
that vinegary cough-inducing quality found in many
house dressings. Instead, a slight sweetness sets
it apart.
Penne pomodoro is memorable with onions, plum tomatoes
and a flash of pancetta. A big bowl of al dente
orecchiette (pasta shaped like little ears) , perky
with superb sweet and hot sausage and sautéed
broccoli rabe, gets rave reviews.
Veal alla sorrentino is like an inviting open face
sandwich of tender veal medallions in a light pizzaiola
sauce layered with eggplant, prossciutto and fresh
mozzarella.
Seafood is pristinely fresh and magnificent- as
in lemon sole livornese (market price). It’s
expertly cooked, perfumed with white wine, capers,
anchovies, black olives, onions, fresh tomatoes
and herbs.
Habit-forming wonderful potato croquettes partner
non-pasta dinners. If your lucky and visit on Sunday,
that traditional dinner is paradise on a platter.
It’s a feast of rigatoni, fist sized melt-on-the-plate
meatballs, Italian sausage, braciole, a fork-tender
slab of pork and a coil of pig skin (probably an
acquired taste for most with it’s slightly
bitter quality). Respectful of its origins, a small
plop of divine ricotta sits on the side.
Connect further to Italian heritage with irresistible
house made desserts. On the menu are tiramisu, chocolate
biscotti, cannoli, Italian lemon ice, ricotta cheesecake
and charlotte russe. There’s the option of
ordering a platter with some of everything.
You might not be able to catch a quick flight to
New York or even get a reservation at the much in
demand Rao’s. But the same wonderful food’s
waiting for you right here in Deerfield Beach.
Cuisine: Italian
847 SE Eighth Ave.
Deerfield Beach
954-418-0611
Cost : Moderate to Expensive
Credit Cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V
Hours: Dinner Wednesday- Sunday and Tuesday; (Closed
on Monday's)
Reservations: strongly advised
Bar: beer, wine only
Sound Level: quiet
No Smoking
Children Facility: no
Wheel Chair Accessible; yes
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